Rabiah's decision to leave Singapore after the '65 Separation was a move in the right direction ...
Showing posts with label Kampong Melayu Kaki Bukit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kampong Melayu Kaki Bukit. Show all posts
Thursday, January 8, 2015
Friday, August 29, 2014
The Sounds of the Battle Drums, mid '64
| Courtesy of www.theartwolf.com |
Though our wooden
house was the one that was drab
On a row of charming
stage houses built on posts
But my seven year
old heart leapt
When I sighted its
facade
From the window of
the dusty bus
As it descended down
the hill
And when it stopped
in front of the house
Where they shot box-office
Malay films
I alighted and crossed
the busy main road
And turned into the dirt
lane on the right
No 38 Peace Street was
the third
Its ground was just
as bald
Save for the
hibiscus hedge
And the tall guava
tree on its left
Yet the red concrete
steps
Led to the wooden
bench
Perched on the
narrow veranda
A favourite hang-out
to sight passing vendors
As I took off my
shoes and socks and washed my feet
With water ladled
from the ceramic vessel
The familiar scent
of the calamansi wafted
And the sight of the
lush, green hill
And its cool, natural
spring
Soothed my smarting eyes
And cleared them of
prickly sand
I sat at the top of
the stairs
And watched the
neighbourhood boys
Pushing and shoving
and scooping
The spouting water
to quench their thirst
A just reward for a friendly
football match
After they left
It was so quiet
No one was about
That I just gawked
At the passing
bullock cart
No sibling to hitch
a ride with on its back
And prompted the cow
herder to halt
And chase us with a crooked
stick
Just yesterday
We were shaken by a tussle
Between Yat and Mal
Over a taste of her popsicle
Bought from the Sun Sun Ice Cream vendor
With coins retrieved between the floors
A sudden jerk caught her off balanced
She had to be taken to the hospital by ambulance
A hairline crack on her shoulder bone
And a fracture on the elbow joint
Hence Mal was missing in action
Though he had been a rescuer once
On that fateful evening last rainy season
When I slipped and fell into the swollen drain
Its swift currents had me almost drowned
But after I showered and changed
Into a Sam
Foo top and pants
I caught a glimpse of the lead actor on his
scooter
That cured me of my trauma and set my heart
aflutter
On that hushed afternoon
I looked out for Alias and his Ma’s epok-epok
Fried dumplings filled with spicy bean sprouts
Or Mamak
the travelling porridge vendor
Balancing two rows of rattan baskets
Filled with tiffins of beans, barley and tuber
gruels
On the wooden staff resting on his shoulders
My tummy growled
When I heard the ‘toot, toot’ sound
Of the Bhai
Roti’s horn
An invitation to check out his treasure chest
Crammed with all sorts of sweet and savoury breads
The best was the steamed white loaf with thick
blobs of kaya spread
But that was nothing like Aunt Mahani’s flying
saucer hot baps
Which I helped to sell around the village to earn
coins in my pockets
My eyes trailed as his
bicycle turned the bend towards the barren knoll
That served as the boundary
between the Foot Hills and the Pig Farm
A favourite location
for fighting scenes in Malay epic films
Also the setting of
the battle drums during the recent turmoil
And the site of the
Ruling Party Amity Corps’ camps
To ensure the rival
groups laid down their arms
It was like a blood stain on the island’s bleached history
But the turning
point for the Malay community’s destiny
From the Silat aficionados’ surge against the agent
provocateurs’ taunts
To the raging torrent
among the ranks of the Maulid
procession
To the state of
emergency declared after the fatal clashes, deaths and detentions
To the extended
periods of curfew filled with conflicts and doubts
And the final fall-out
which led to the departure of intellectuals and patriots
| Courtesy of www.galleryhip.com |
Monday, August 25, 2014
Anak Merdeka, ‘57
| Outram Jail, circa 1950s |
| Kandang Kerbau Hospital, circa 1950s |
I was the baby
of the family
There were Pa,
Ma, Mal, Yat and me
I was born on
the eve of Independence
At this maternity hospital called the Oxen Pen
Along with the
birth of a new nation
Made up of the
FMS and the Straits Settlements
After four and
a half centuries of foreign domination
When Ma was heavy
with me
Pa was incarcerated
into the Penitentiary
Framed for
supplying fire arms to the Radical Lefties
That shook the
sensibilities of my grandfather, the Selangor Mufti
Who arrived in
Singapore in his maroon Mercedes
Driven by his private chauffeur, my third Ami
Siddi’s presence lent credence to his eldest son’s
defence
And swayed the
court verdict to a prison sentence
Ma worked her
bones to feed and shelter her family
And buy Pa his
pack of Players when she visited him monthly
Her loyalty to
her husband was admirable
In spite of
her brothers and sisters’ disapproval
They were all
the support system that she had
Her mother had
died of miscarriage when she was eight
And her father
expired when she was a young bride
When
I turned six
Pa
was released
He
moved us from the one-bedroom barrack next to the cinema Central
To
his godfather’s two-bedroom house in the village at the Foot Hills
But
there was no decent job for a sworn enemy
And
he can’t feed his family with fervent pleas
So
across the border, and into the interior, he set off with his buddies
To
clear acres of land and grow some paddy
When
the field of grains turned golden
It
was the start of the harvesting season
Pa
took us to visit
And
witness what all the months of toil had yielded
Alas,
he ran out of funds to pay the villagers
Whom
he hired as daily harvesters
When
they refused to show up for work
Pa
and his buddies could only watch
As
tracts and tracts of paddy stalks began to rot
Anak Merdeka - Independence Child
FMS - Federated Malay States
Mufti - Grand Cleric
Ami - Paternal Uncle
Siddi - Paternal Grandfather
Paddy - Rice Grains
Wednesday, January 9, 2013
Hidayah Amin's The Mango Tree
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| The State vs Hidayah Amin and the casualty is the Mango Tree |
While I've been dawdling back and forth through my drafts, Hidayah Amin has published her second childhood memoir, The Mango Tree. Its launch is scheduled for March 16, 2013 (a Saturday) at the Pod@National Library, Singapore. Since it's a children's book, there'll be a Nature Talk, Music Performance, Book Sale & Book Signing, Free Air-Brush Face-Painting (upon purchase of book), Special Gifts for those wearing or bringing something green or yellow. Since space is limited, do RSVP to helang.books@gmail.com
https://www.facebook.com/events/469410049788294/
Well, if that doesn't spur me on to publish my own childhood memoir, then nothing will. For a start, I've engaged an editor who has made recommendations for the overall structure and sections for the proposed title and should be editing each line of the second draft by now.
So as to allay my doubts about who'd be interested to buy and read a memoir of someone who hasn't really made her mark in this world, I was also asked to answer the following question:
Why Bury My Heart in Kaki Bukit?
'To bury my heart' in a place where I had spent my childhood, a Malay kampong
and a symbol of the Malays’ entitlement as the native settlers, means a sense
of belonging and attachment to a place firmly lodged in the Singapore
Malays’ collective memory and psyche.
Draft Foreword (what to
“expect” as in “why” the segments are as such)
There’s
something about the end of an era which set a train of thoughts in motion. When the impending closure of the Tanjong
Pagar Railway Station in July 2011 was announced, it opened a floodgate of
memories of railway journeys with my mother across the Causeway - to visit my
paternal grandparents in Klang, to view my father’s ‘paddy’ project in Kahang
and, of course, to uproot ourselves and resettle in KL.
However, my
intention was not simply to reminisce about the past, nor present a personal
tale of unresolved issues with my father’s rage or a tender eulogy about my
mother’s strength. I believe that my
personal plight and my family’s misfortune are merely threads which weave into
the larger tapestry of the collective experiences of the Singapore Malays of
that era.
The
turbulent years which followed the atrocities of the Japanese Occupation, the
intense struggle for Independence and the UMNO-PAP contest over the political
control of Singapore had left a deep scar in their psyche. My story represents the narratives of those
families who sought refuge in Malaysia.
For those who stayed or migrated elsewhere, their voices should be heard
too.
Plus, I'm also experimenting with this opening - not sure if it will attract or repulse readers of my daughters' generation - the Gen Y.
1 The
Turning Point
You
think that Singapore is all about Marina Bay Sands and The Eye. Do you know that before there were urban
renewal, skyscrapers and infinity pools, there were fishing villages, kampong
houses and miles and miles of sandy beaches.
As a tourist, you think it’s cool to celebrate multiculturalism by traipsing
around Little India, Chinatown and the Arab Quarter, but you don’t even mark the
Malay Village in Geylang Serai on your map. Please don't tell me that you're secretly ashamed to be a part of a race that’s been labelled
backward and a culture that’s deemed deficient.
You might think history is not important. The past has no place in the present. That it’s best to move on and let go. But you don't know what it's like to be born and bred in a kampong created out of indigenous claim. You don’t know what it’s like to belong to a land where your forefathers had traversed millions of years before you took your first step on that same soil. You don’t know what it means to shed blood and liberate your motherland from the clutches of the colonisers. You can’t imagine how humiliating it is to be downgraded from the status of natives with special rights to that of a mere minority. It never crossed your mind that this people who’s accused of surviving on crutches and government hand-outs was once a proud race of seafarers, warriors and craftsmen.
You might think history is not important. The past has no place in the present. That it’s best to move on and let go. But you don't know what it's like to be born and bred in a kampong created out of indigenous claim. You don’t know what it’s like to belong to a land where your forefathers had traversed millions of years before you took your first step on that same soil. You don’t know what it means to shed blood and liberate your motherland from the clutches of the colonisers. You can’t imagine how humiliating it is to be downgraded from the status of natives with special rights to that of a mere minority. It never crossed your mind that this people who’s accused of surviving on crutches and government hand-outs was once a proud race of seafarers, warriors and craftsmen.
If
you would only look at the course of history, you could see that the ’64 Riots was
the turning point when an intelligent, articulate and fearless race morphed into
an insipid, bumbling and spineless bunch of people. In just a space of 13 months, they were to
lose their grip on indigenous rights to their homeland, and, along with that,
their constitutional rights to defend their language, culture and religion.
Tuesday, April 19, 2011
Jalan Perwira, Kaki Bukit, Singapore
Well, folks, this is the YouTube video on life in Kaki Bukit in the seventies and eighties, posted by Muzaffar703. I wish I could thank him personally or he would by chance stumble upon my blog, as I had stumbled upon his video. Note the 'little hut' that housed the 'bucket-type latrine' of the 'good old days of poor sanitation and plumbing' (Snicker and Sneer).
I would also like to thank T Azra who conveyed his salam through Remgold's blog. I hope there are many silent readers like him who enjoyed reading my postings but are too shy to comment.
I would also like to share another title of the same genre, A Kite in the Evening Sky by Shaik Kadir, as mentioned by T Azra. It is a lower secondary text published by Marshall Cavendish Education. It recounted a childhood in Geylang Serai in the late fifties and sixties. I will try to get my hands on the book and do an off-the-cuff review. Til then, God speed!
Thursday, March 24, 2011
Bury my heart in Kaki Bukit*
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| Kampong houses reminiscent of those in Kaki Bukit in 1960s |
The years in Kampung Melayu Kaki Bukit (Malay Kampong at the Foothills) must have been the most cherished in Mak’s life, apart from the stints at Bukit Tinggi and Ipoh. I must have been about five years old when we moved from Lorong K to No 38, Jalan Damai, Singapura 14. Abang Hatta was in his final year at Victoria School, Kak Eka was enrolled in evening classes (in shorthand and typing) and working at the same tailoring shop as Mak, Jamal was in primary four at the Malay School in Still Road and Yat in primary one at the school in Jalan Eunos.
(Bapak had enrolled Jamal in a Malay school, in spite of Mak’s objection. Malay schools like Sang Nila Utama flourished and Malay language teachers were in high demand in the ‘50s and ‘60s. It was compulsory then for all police and army officers to take National Language lessons. Malay was rightly implemented as the National Language, according to the Constitution of Singapore, until the 1970s when its usage in official matters declined and Malay parents were dissuaded from sending their children to Malay schools)
Compared to the debilitating communal houses and depressing atmosphere in Kebun Ubi, the environment in Kaki Bukit was scenic and refreshing. And it was a huge relief from the crammed rented units near the Central area. The simple, wooden house that we occupied was the fourth or fifth on the row of charming rumah panggongs (traditional Malay kampong houses built on posts) off the main road which slid down from the steep hill and ended at the bus terminal far into the horizon. Ustaz Jalal had built or bought that house and agreed to rent it out to Bapak (at a very low rate, I presumed).
That part of Jalan Damai, where our house was situated, faced the back of the hill which was overgrown with lush, green grass. There was an air pancor (water spout) halfway up the hill, where the neighbourhood children and passing labourers scooped its gushing water to wash their sweaty faces on hot afternoons. A shallow, dusty ditch separated our house from the orange dirt road which ran parallel to the padang. Once in a while, we would catch a glimpse of Yusoff Latiff (a young, handsome movie star) who whizzed by on his scooter to or from movie locations, either at one of the big houses along the road or the stretch of barren, rocky terrain that served as a buffer between Kaki Bukit and Chai Chee. On most days, we would hail the boy who sells epok-epok (vegetarian curry puffs), the mamak who sells different types of bubur (sweet porridge made from beans, barley or tubers) placed in a pile of baskets balanced by a plank which rested on his shoulders, the stout Benggali bread vendor or the grumpy Sun Sun ice cream seller, who shouted their wares, sounded their horns or bells in the afternoons and evenings. On rare afternoons when we ran out of ideas for games, we would hitch a ride on the bullock cart of the Sikh cow herder, who would then stop and chase us with a stick. One evening during the monsoon season, I slipped and fell into the dirt ditch. Its water had overflowed and its currents swept and almost drowned me had Jamal not dived in and rescued me. Not long after that, it was reinforced with a row of uniform V-shaped, concrete ducts.
Rough hedges of tea bushes hugged the edge of the wide dirt drain in front and the narrow one on the left, which marked the boundary between our plot and that of our affable neighbour. Wak Seman Benjol (a permanent bump on his right forehead earned him that nick name) lived with his wife, Wak Limah, who used to sell cakar ayam (small, rounded, caramelised sweet potato hash browns) from home. After Jamal was circumcised, Mak heeded Wak Seman’s advice to feed him two boiled eggs in the mornings but that proved disastrous, when the pus on his wound worsened.
When Mak told him, “Wak, nananya makin teruk bila saya kasi makan telor.”
(Uncle, the pus got worse when I fed him eggs.)
“Siapa suruh kau kasi dia makan telor?”
(Who asked you to feed him eggs? he retorted.)
There was no drain separating our piece of land with that of our neighbours’ on the right. There were only scattered, waist-high hedges of hibiscus plants. Mak Cik Mani and her family were originally from Melaka. Her stern looks concealed a very kind heart. She had to be the main breadwinner when her husband left the police force after he had a stroke. Pak Cik Yasin was detached, spending most of his time praying or looking out the front window with a rosary in his right hand after the stroke had left his left side impaired. Mak Cik Mani’s crinkled-faced, octogenarian mother, who we all called Nek, could not see eye to eye with her son-in-law, so she chose to spend most of her time chewing pounded betel leaves and telling ghost stories on the amben (wide, wooden bench) under their house. They had six children - Kak Hasnah and Patong (or Doll) were already married and lived elsewhere, Pipit (a 17 year old, nicknamed ‘sparrow’ for her love of ‘chirping’), Mamat (Mohamed, a 16 year old, who filled his every waking moment with youthful pursuits such as gasing spinning and kite slicing with fierce intensity), Enchah (Habsah, their studious, sensible daughter who was my best pal) and Yon (Haron, their youngest son, whom Jamal loved to tease as my suitor).
Enchah and I spent many hours climbing trees for their shade, their red round ‘cherries’ or their small, hard red saga seeds to be sewn into tiny pouches of batu selembat (which can be substituted with sand). When our siblings and other neighbours’ children were around, we would break into groups and played teng-teng (hopscotch), Nenek-nenek (Old Grandmother), masak-masak (mock cooking) and kahwin-kahwin (mock wedding). On quiet afternoons, we would lay on the amben under the tall jambu batu (guava) tree, listening to Pipit’s tales of romantic escapades. The guava tree also provided shade for my mother’s makeshift warong (foodstall), where Mak occasionally sold her nasi sambal goreng (rice served with spicy mixed beans and offals), nasi rawon (rice with beef in black sauce made from buah keluak) and lontong (rice cubes with creamy mixed vegetables soup and topped with sambal, serunding and bergedil). Mak Cik Mani was more steadfast in purveying her white and yellow steamed putu piring with gula melaka fillings, stacked on top of grated coconut and round pieces of banana leaf. Whenever I needed to earn my own pocket money, I would take a basketful of those hot piping flour cakes wrapped in banana leaves and old newspapers and walked around the village with Enchah, shouting “Putu piring”. With the 15 sen duit dalal (sales commission), I splurged on tikam-tikam (a mini wheel of fortune) which got me a pink cincin buah kana (a metal ring with a fake stone in the shape of an olive), pink cotton candies, gula tarik (hard, white candy sprinkled with sesame seeds) and ais krim potong (blocks of ice cream wafers).
Enchah and I were very close although we later attended different schools – I was at Telok Kurau West (Integrated) Primary School, an English medium school, while Enchah was a student at Sekolah Menengah Still Road, a Malay medium school. I remembered we were not on talking terms only once, when Mak Cik Mani had accidentally given a toxic solution instead of vanilla essence, which caused Mak to be so upset that she hurled her red and green coconut candies to the ground just outside our kitchen for Mak Cik Mani to see.
Our kitchen, like most Malay kampong ones, was a half-concrete half-wooden part of the house built on the ground at the back of the plain wooden house on posts. Welcoming the guests in front was the red-painted, concrete stairway and a small veranda with its smoothly finished wooden bench. The kitchen was rather large, with ample space for a small cemented area to wash fish, meat and vegetables, a small aluminium-plated tungku (charcoal stove made from clay), steel and formica dining table and chairs, a beige pandan mat and kapok mattress to lie on for short naps or afternoon siestas on the far right next to the window. At the end of the kitchen, a door led to a bathroom with a kolah (a concrete, waist-high pool to retain water for showering and ablution) and a tempayan (a medium size porcelain water vessel). And I should not forget to mention the creepy bawah kolong (the cellar under the stairs). One night when I was thirsty, Mak went down to get me a glass of water while I waited at the top of the stairs on the main house with its larger and smaller bedrooms on the right and left. I thought I saw my second brother dashed out from the dark cellar, so I called, “Mal!” but the figure just vanished into thin air. Since that incident, I dared not go down to the kitchen at night.
The kitchen held both pleasant and unpleasant memories. Jamal, Yat and I would wait with bated breath for Mak’s telor masak kicap (eggs in soya sauce), ikan masak tauco (fish in fermented soya), ikan masak singgang (fish soup), sambal goreng, daging masak rawon or lontong on better days or lempeng kelapa (coconut pancakes), sayur masak bening (watery vegetable soup), or bubur nasi (rice porridge) with anchovies on lean days. There was a period of exceptionally lean days, when we just had bubur ragi (gruel with margarine and sugar) and water biscuits or unsalted cream crackers with chunks of Cheddar cheese donated by the USAID or the American Peace Corps. Once in a blue moon, when Mak was invited to weddings, we would get to taste nasi minyak (ghee rice), chicken bamia (middle-eastern dish) and hard-boiled eggs which the hosts had packed for us. Special treats such as murtabak (Middle-Eastern bread with mince meat fillings) or briyani from Islamic Restaurant in Arab Street were few and far between, such as during Siddi’s rare visits.
Wak Enah, Mak’s eldest sister, was like a fairy godmother to us whenever she appeared at the kitchen door (womenfolk and children entered through the kitchen door then) bearing pricy imported fruits and delicious desserts – red and green globes of juicy grapes, shiny crunchy apples and tangy oranges, moist marble cakes and wobbly green and red jellies – which Mak could not afford to buy or prepare. Whenever Mak craved for the Mi Rebus Jawa (noodles in thick mutton gravy) and Satay (skewered meat drowned in peanut sauce) at Joo Chiat Road, she would take one of us and an expensive piece of jewellery or batik sarong to hock at the pawn shop in front before tucking in at the back lane. When Abang Hatta started work as a police constable, he would buy cake remnants from the bakery on his way home which we devoured in a jiffy.
Bapak spent very little time with us at Kaki Bukit. He was always away for some business ventures and, when they folded, he would return in a foul mood. We had grown accustomed to his absence and felt awkward whenever he was around. Mak had assumed the role of breadwinner and decision maker, laying down the house rules for us, which she forgot to relinquish whenever Bapak was home. We dreaded mealtimes, whenever Bapak took his place at the head of the table. Not only we were not supposed to help ourselves before him, but we had to be extremely careful not to ruffle his feathers. One evening, when we were all seated and waiting at the dining table to tuck into Mak’s steaming fish ball soup, Mak said,
“Please use the ladle, not your own spoon, to scoop the soup to your plate.”
That had Bapak all riled up. He flew into a rage, got up and thumped the table:
“I’m the head of the family! Why do you have to tell me what to do? Why can’t I use my own spoon if I want to? Am I a leper that you’re all afraid that I’ll spread my germs?”
We hung our heads, frozen in our seats and prayed silently for the storm to subside. Bapak’s fury had become unpredictable. It can be triggered by any slight from any one of us. One day, when a hot water flask that he flung at Kak Eka’s direction missed her, some of the scalding water spilled on my thighs. And I winced when he bent three copper coins with a pair of pliers and twisted Jamal’s arms behind his back for failing to buy him cigarettes with those three cents. Whenever I heard Bapak’s footsteps on the wooden planks of the main house, my heart sank and I escaped to play outside.
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